Her War

Interpreting Women's Lives during the American Civil War

White Summer Basque Bodice and Skirt

Recently I attended another Genteel Arts workshop on a White Summer Basque Bodice. I love this garment. It is an informal piece, intended for home wear or other informal events.

As usual, originals were available for inspection. I decided to base my bodice on an original in the collection of Carolann Schmitt. I’m sorry I have no photos of the complete garment; however, I have images of a sleeve and the bottom of the bodice.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

My bodice is made from a 100% cotton dimity and lined with a 100% cotton batiste that I purchased from Needle & Thread in Gettysburg.

Our first task was to create a pattern based on our fitted bodice pattern. I had cut a practice bodice at home prior to the class so was able to verify the fit of my pattern. However, I was pretty secure in the fit as Maggie Koenig of Gettysburg had created the pattern and other garments from the pattern fit very well. After verifying the fit, I created the actual basque pattern extending the bodice lines to create the peplum. At the second fitting it was determined that I would need a horizontal dart along the waist to pinch it in a bit more. 

I was able to complete the bodice at class. While at class I decided that I wanted this completed for my next event, Sharksmouth, in Massachusetts. So I went right to it upon getting home adding the ruffles.

 

And the sleeves, which are not lined.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The armscye is piped but the neck is not.

 

So on to the skirt. I choose a taupe silk taffeta from Needle & Thread. It is wonderful fabric. The fabric is 54″ wide and I made three panels, which I knife pleated.

The skirt has a hem guard about 6″ wide of black polished cotton and a hem tape of black wool. Carolann Schmitt was so nice to send me three colors of velvet 2″ ribbon from Needle & Thread for a belt. She sent me red, pumpkin, and eggplant and I choose the eggplant, but kept the rest…just in case. I also purchased a belt buckle from Ensembles of the Past on Etsy.

I finished the whole outfit with a week to spare!!

Categories: Civil War