My latest warm clothing piece is a wool petticoat. I did not use a pattern for this; however, I did rely on handouts from Carolann Schmitt from a class on wool petticoats. I used a red wool twill, 60 inches wide, by two yards. I had some left over.
Wool petticoats typically were attached to a thinner fabric, which in turn was pleated into the waist band; the wool is too thick to ease into the waist band without a lot of bulk. I used a white Pema cotton as the top band of the petticoat. I measured the full length of the petticoat from my waist to just the bottom of my calf. I cut the band the width from my waist to my hips, give or take a bit, and then cut the wool the remaining length, adding some for seam allowance and hem. I used two panels 60 inches wide.
T
he first step was to create the placket. The was made by slashing a distance from the top of the fabric, adding a facing, overlapping the edges and sewing them closed at the bottom with a square and/or cross of stitching.
Wool petticoats at the time added herringbone stitching inside along the side seams; this tended to be more flexible with the shrinkage due to laundering. The stitching was done with a heavier thread in a contrasting color giving a nice accent along the seam line. 
I then hemmed the wool turning over a half inch, and then hemming a full inch. The wool is then attached to the cotton band flat, no gathers, easing, or pleats. Since my fabric raveled quite easily, I felled the seams to encase the raw edges.
The completed skirt is pleated into a waist band rather than gathered. I mistakenly cut my waist band a little narrower than intended, but it worked.
Added a hand stitched button hole and the button and we’re done, just in time for Remembrance Day.
Next one I think I’ll make the cotton band less wide. But it will keep me nice and warm for the winter months events I plan to attend.
Categories: Civil War