I had planned to have this dress done for Welbourne, but it didn’t happen so it’s first outing was at Remembrance Day in Gettysburg (more about the weekend in the next blog entry).
I had found the fabric at Affordable Fabrics in Connecticut for $2.99 a yard. As with several things at this store, you’re never quite sure you have a 100% or a synthetic blend. I did a burn test and it seemed to be 100% and then a bleach test which was not so clear. I’ve not been very good reading the bleach test, so since I really like this fabric I’m going with the burn test. The fabric is very soft and has a great hand.
My inspiration for the dress has been in my collection of images for years. I have always liked the sleeves and the simplicity of the dress. Simplicity had put out a pattern with these sleeves, which is out of print; I have the pattern in several sizes. However, I decided to use the pattern block created for me by Maggie Koenig and the sleeve pattern from Carolann Schmitt’s sleeve class. It probably would have been faster to use the Simplicity pattern as I ended up doing the sleeves three times; not due to any fault with the pattern blocks, but the lack of my skill at fitting. The experience it was well worth the headache.
As I wanted this dress to be warm, I chose to line the bodice and the sleeves. I took a huge leap of faith as I was using the bodice block I always used and did not fit the bodice before cutting the fashion fabric. In fact I didn’t even try the dress on until I was in Gettysburg and dressing for Remembrance Day festivities Saturday morning.
I followed suggestions found online from Carolann Schmitt on placing the hooks and eyes based on originals she has examined. The hooks and eyes are sewn to a tape; both extending over the edge of the tape. The hooks are sandwiched between the lining and the fabric. The tape is lined up even with the folded edge of the lining. The bodice and the lining are then whip stitched together along the folded edges encasing the eyes.
The hook tape is sewn to the bodice and lining as one piece with the tape even with the raw edge of the bodice/lining, hooks down.
The raw edge is folded toward the inside and then folded over again. This encases the raw edge and the hooks in the overlap of the front of the bodice. The hooks are then eased through the fabric.
This was rather fun…then I took on the sleeves. As I mentioned I used patterns developed by Maggie Koenig, which I got when I attended Carolann Schmitt’s sleeve workshop. I used the basic coat sleeve with not too much of an angle and the ball gown poof pattern. These patterns are wonderfully done; my problems were experimenting with how much poof and getting the poofs centered just right on the sleeve. The sleeves are lined. The puffs are attached separately with the bottom of the top poof covering the top of the bottom poof.
The second sleeve went together much easier. The bottom of the sleeve was self finished.
And here is the completed bodice.
I only have two correct collars and I am so glad Carolann is doing a collar and cuff workshop in 2017. I have never gotten the hang of creating correct collar patterns. Eventually I’ll add some buttons to the bodice.
Of course the only photo I have wearing it, and yes it did fit, is from an event at Harper’s Ferry, which I will talk about in another post. This picture also shows my fichu which I finished at the Harper’s Ferry event.
Categories: Civil War, Living History, sewing
Tags: Civil War, fashion, Living History, sewing