Her War

Interpreting Women's Lives during the American Civil War

Winter Clothes: Muff

Next on the list for my winter wardrobe is a muff. A muff could be of fur. silk, or wool and usually lined with silk. My muff is based on one at Museum of Fine Arts in Boston. I used boiled wool from Needle and Thread, a scrap of silk taffeta, and wool batting.

I produced the pattern from scratch based on the measurements of other muffs of the time. I aimed for 12 inches long and 20 inches in circumference. The wool was cut to include the “envelope” flap. The batting and the silk were cut without the flap.

The first task was to baste the wool batting to the wool fabric.

Then add the silk, as if creating a bag. At first, I sewed the bottom closed as well but later opened it as it worked better to close the inside with less fabric.

I also included ruffles along the edges. These were constructed with a straight piece of fabric added between the silk and the wool piece. Once the pieces are attached, I turn the muff right side out then gathered along the edge seam to gather the ruffle and to make the hand holes smaller; not tight around the wrist but tight enough to keep air out and still allow the hands in.

The muff is then rolled onto itself inside out. I attached the bottom of the muff piece at about the bottom of the flap. Then pulled the silk lining over the seam and whip stitched the lining closed. Then carefully turn the muff right side out.

I chose to trim the muff with rouching from the lining fabric. The rolled hem technique I learned at the Royal Academy of Needlework came in use here.

I attached the rouching before sewing down the flap. I put black velvet trim down the middle of the rouching. The flap is only tacked down to the muff body with the thread running between the wool and the taffeta lining.

In my stash I had these great red and black buttons; one of these made a great pop of color on the front; add a couple of tassles and we’re done. Now to de-cat hair the thing.

This is the last of my planned winter garments/accessories. Now to decide which dresses to take and attach skirt lifters.

Categories: Civil War